Thursday 19 June 2014

About the city



I never thought of Berlin as a capital, able to offer you many attractions, your average restaurant goer a great range of tasty options, your experienced traveler many new cultural discoveries, an average foreigner a new home. I imagined restaurants and bars to look like traditional German breweries in the Düsseldorf’s downtown touristic area: huge dark and noisy windowless rooms, looking rather like decorations to the Hollywood movies about dwarfs, than a nice option to consider for having the dinner at. Perhaps, I thought, there is a couple of good restaurants serving German, authentic Japanese and (who would doubt, that it could be found even on the deserted island), tolerable Italian cuisine. As for the wine, the forecasts were quite gloomy... Well, Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Sylvaner are ruling in this part of the world, there is no surprise in that, but as for “red” Italy, France or New World (particularly the wines of the last category) I didn’t hope much for. There was a common opinion, which I followed, that the city is eclectic and plain, one can hardly find a couple of sites, worth seeing or beautiful Kietz, able to impress. That was a picture of Berlin, drawn by my poor imagination. However, experience is the only teacher, and now I'm so ashamed of my previous judgments.



To begin with, this city is very diverse. Like the color variations on the chameleon’s body, the aesthetics of the city, its character, mode of expression and its “face”, changes from one area to another, regardless of the very conditional and no longer applicable in political meaning, but still usable in the conversation, territorial division into "East" and "West".
There are many tourists here, however it is nothing to compare to other capitals or popular cities, such as Venice, Florence, Paris or Barcelona, ​​where the multilingual wave covers you, hitting with such strength, that even understanding the meaning of what is being said, your brain simply refuses to identify the language during first couple of seconds.


To me, one of the first amazing Berlin’s features is its ability to destroy stereotypes about itself, to demolish common complaining that "Berlin is boring”, “Berlin is Soviet” etc. Of course, there are still streets and squares that amaze you with the "beautiful" samples of Soviet architecture and yes, perhaps a street in the Wittenbergplatz area would be more interesting for an average Berlin realtor than the street close to Alexanderplatz in terms of its financial attractiveness. But it is also true to say that if you forget the names of the streets and rely on the spectrum of your own feelings, you’d be surprised, easily taking the "Eastern" part of the city for the "Western" and vice versa.

Prenzlauer Berg is one of those, as Eastern as could be, parts of Berlin, turns to be a mixture of New York’s Greenwich Village hipster style, the Florence’s relaxed atmosphere and the gastronomic chic of Paris along with the splendid architecture and a charming intellectual aesthetic of the last century’s 30s. Here, in a relatively small area, more than 6 000 restaurants and bars are being “settled” compactly.

Some are expensive, some are cheap, some are tasteful, some are less, but the abundance of the options (Japanese, Korean, Chinese, Vietnamese, Indian and Singaporean, Italian, French, Spanish, African, Irish, Russian, Greek, German) is stunning; it’s like to travel around the world, without leaving your home. Besides that, most of them have beautiful summer terraces, making you feel like a kid in a toy store, so difficult it is to make a choice where to seat and to pick one out of dozens. 



 
The second feature of Berlin is its relaxed atmosphere of total hedonism. On my opinion, it possesses a feminine energy - soft, flowing, relaxed, so confident and slightly indifferent the city is. However, this “indifference”, doesn’t proceed out of arrogance, but is the natural result of the inner focus; other / others are unimportant in this case, they are only a part of the general play, the crowd scene, if you wish, not more. If Berlin wasn’t a city, but a person, I’d say that he would be a Zen Buddhist with certain features of Bertram Wooster, a literature character that enjoys his pleasant and blithe life. Nobody rushes here, except, perhaps, the bicyclists, more numerous than in Paris, they tear by you at a full speed, like the skiers on the mountain on a lovely, sunny day.



Berlin's wines' portfolio is impressive and focused on the authentic grape varieties, which gives you a chance to taste a huge range, comparing vintages and styles and to enjoy your favorite afterwards for the reasonable money. There is no lack in Italian, French or Spanish wines (some vintages of the Iconic Super Tuscany seem to be found here easier that in Italy). As for New World (Chile, California, Australia) the situation is different, they are not as much appreciated as the wines out of Europe. The reasons for that are easy to understand, but still it's a pity.  




 Berlin is fascinated by Eco trend and this passion is transmitted to newcomers. Bio is everything and everywhere: vegetables, fruits, cheeses, yogurts, meat and wine. Even if you've never thought before about the necessity of Bio purchases or about the Eco trend in general, here you will start doing it for sure, start spending your weekends in numerous parks, start buying organic food, riding bike and sorting/recycling your garbage.



 Speaking of parks, park for the Berliner is not the same as park for a Parisian, for a Roman or for a Kiever, for the Berliner Park is a second home. No, I don’t mean that people here have no place to sleep at night or are being kicked out of their houses regularly, I just mean that any park is the relax area, and as Berliners do not like to strain much at work, but they love nature, sports, music and grilled meat, parks for them are irreplaceable. So, here is the great variety of them, but, of course, some are more popular than others, for example, Tiergarten. Tiergarten looks like a forest in the heart of the city, close to the Philharmonic and other tourist attractions of West Berlin. Huge, dark, this endless green territory, with ponds, reminded me the Central Park, however, I suppose, such analogies occur to everyone.

 Mauerpark. Mauerpark on Sundays welcomes you to make a journey “back to the 60s”. At every 10 meters distance (well, maybe I'm exaggerating, let’s say, every 50) there is someone singing in "James Blunt”, “The Beatles”, “Pinkfloyd” styles . Mentioning the 60s, I don’t mean the music of that epoch, although, there is such as well of course, rather referring to a hippie atmosphere of those times. In front of each "mini stage" there is an audience, lying on the grass, sitting on the mats, with beer or coffee, with kids, with pets, with bicycles. The big flea market, where one can buy everything: from old vinyl records to vintage suitcases is also located here. The sales people, wearing sometimes just the underwear or the barefoot buyers, don’t shock anyone here. When the season starts, one big stage is being set here for karaoke, transforming thus the entire park (or its biggest part) into a platform for a rock concert.


Monbijoupark. Monbijoupark, on my opinion, is one of the most beautiful. Located near the Friedrichstrasse and Berlin Dom, it leads to the museum island. There are many restaurants and bars, both on its territory and outside – on the square and on the surrounding streets, so you can sit comfortably on a chaise longue enjoying your cocktail and admiring the nature and the beautiful architect forms of the museum buildings. Yet, the “economy version” of lying on the grass next to the water channel that separates the park from the Museum Island,
listening to the music of the street violinists and the bells of the Cathedral, gives you a great joy as well. Dozing, you still hear the touristic boats passing by with their somnolent rumbling “Berrrrrrrrrrlin, Berrrrrrrrrrrlin” :).


I find it to be one of the most romantic cities in the world, but let's be objective - it is one of the most romantic cities in the world :)


 

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